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Very Best Restaurants: Wurzburg-haus

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Wurzburg-haus *
, $

The accordionist belting out tunes on Friday and Saturday evenings gives warning that the German food served at Wurzburg-Haus will never qualify as diet cuisine, but he certainly makes the calories a lot more fun. Add in the large selection of German beers and the impressive variety of house-made bread and rolls, and it becomes quickly evident that this is a place to leave guilt at the door.

Enjoyable starters include the thick lentil or goulash soup or the potato pancake, which also makes a good side dish. True to form, neither the fleish (meat) nor herring salad is a route to thinness:The fleish is loaded with mayonnaise, the herring with sour cream. For a main course, you can't go wrong with smoked loin of pork, thickly breaded pork chops, baked breaded chicken, goulash, sauerbraten, or half duckling. Try one of the schnitzels, such as the jaeger (hunter) version with mushrooms. The side dishes are a treat. Chopped red cabbage, spaetzle, and bread dumplings are paired with main courses but also can be ordered separately.

To conclude the calorie extravagance, order the German-chocolate cake made with cocoa, coconut, and walnuts, or the king-sized portion of apple strudel.

Wurzburg-haus , , ; 301-330-0402. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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