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Very Best Restaurants: Sushi-ko

Very Best Listing | Very Best by Cuisine | Very Best by Location

Sushi-ko **
Washington, $

To explain why sushi chefs often try to talk patrons out of ordering set assortments at crowded sushi counters, Sushi-Ko's owner, Daisuke Utagawa, says that sushi chefs traditionally think of the counter as their stage and want to show off their particular specialties to the audience sitting in the orchestra seats. If you want the set assortmentwhich in the top sushi places will be just as fresh and as artfully presented as the chef's pet preparationsit's just a matter of etiquette to order it when sitting at a booth.

If you sit at the counter of the best sushi bar in our area, chef Kazuhiro Okochi"Kaz" to his regularswill tout his top choices of the day. Among his past favorites have been marinated eggplant with smoked mackerel, a flounder roll with pickled seaweed, and a sushi "napoleon" whose layers of fried wonton pastry are separated by finely diced sea trout seasoned with soy sauce, ginger, fresh coriander, and sesame seeds.

Sushi-ko , 2309 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington; 202-333-4187. Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday through Monday for dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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