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Very Best Restaurants: Seven Seas

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Seven Seas *
Rockville , ¢

As the name suggests, Seven Seas serves mostly seafood, here cooked in the Shanghai-Taiwanese style. Freshness is ensured by the bubbling tanks of live lobsters, Dungeness crabs, clams, mussels, scallops, and fish surrounding the entrance. Seven Seas has two menus. Ask for the bilingual menu, which contains some of the choicest and most authentic offerings.

Good selections include whole fish steamed with ginger and scallions or braised with a brown sauce, lobster or Dungeness crabs with black-bean sauce or with ginger and scallions, deep-fried oysters, and steamed fresh shrimp so tender that the head and shell are edible. For a nonseafood dish, try shredded beef with ginger, stewed chicken with ginger and whole garlic cloves in a hot pot, or sauteed spinach and watercress.

Seven Seas also has a separate listing of low-fat, no-salt, and no-MSG preparations and a limited Japanese menu. At lunch on weekends, the restaurant offers Northern Chinese dim sum, which has more non-dumpling dishes, larger portions, and spicier seasonings than the usual. Unlike Cantonese dim sum, this one is not served from carts.

Seven Seas , 1776 E. Jefferson St., Rockville ; 301-770-5020. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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