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Very Best Restaurants: Sam & Harry's

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Sam & Harry's **
Washington, $$

This year, Sam & Harry's will be opening a branch in Tysons Corner. Since the success of the 19th Street original is due as much to the talent of partners Michael Sternberg and Larry Work for coddling customers as it is to the top-prime, dry-aged beef that they ship in from Chicago, there is good reason to worry about what will happen to the city's most hospitable steakhouse when Work heads for Virginia and Sternberg hops the pond over to London, where a branch will be opened in a couple of years.

For the time being, all is well. The partners ensure Sam and Harry's convivially crowded attendance level by treating newcomers as treasured regulars, and the beef is national class. The porterhouse steak here consistently matches the superlative one served at Morton's of Chicago, and the bone-in rib of beefunlisted on the menu but available for the askingis every bit its match in flavor and even more tender.

One goes to Sam & Harry's with beef in mind, but there are also salmon, swordfish, and lobster for those otherwise inclined. Whatever the choice, the wine list, which ranges in price from moderate to extravagant, is excellent. And for those who want to end the evening with more than just coffee, Sam & Harry's offers a list of premium cigars, all perfectly kept in a cupboard-sized humidor.

Sam & Harry's , 1200 19th St. NW, Washington; 202-296-4333. Open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner Monday through Saturday. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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