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Very Best Restaurants: Rio Grande Cafe

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Rio Grande Cafe ***
Bethesda , Ballston , Reston, $

Rio Grande Cafe has made its studied warehouse look of rough floors, exposed ductwork, splashy wall writing, and stacked cases of beer and 50-pound sacks of rice into a hallmark. But don't be misled by the decor into thinking that these popular restaurants offer anything less than excellent Tex-Mex cooking. The restaurants' no-reservation policy means that diners may face prime-time waits of an hour or more, but the first-rate margaritas and tortilla chips with salsa as well as the Rube Goldberglike tortilla-making contraption help pass the time.

Most customers stick to the basicsnachos, enchiladas, tacos, tamales, and fajitasand are rarely disappointed. More adventurous patrons order the grilled quail, dry ribs, shrimp, or frog's legs, either alone or in various combinations. But some plan on a Thursday visit when all the locations offer cabrito, baby goat browned to a perfect mahogany. Two-and-a-half pounds of goat ribs and haunch cost $15.95, while a combination of the goat and a choice of beef or chicken fajitas goes for $14.95.

Rio Grande Cafe , 4919 Fairmont Ave., Bethesda ; 301-656-2981. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

Rio Grande Cafe , 4301 N. Fairfax Dr., Ballston ; 703-528-3131. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

Rio Grande Cafe , 1827 Library St., Reston Town Center, Reston; 703-904-0703. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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