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Very Best Restaurants: Pizzeria Paradiso

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Pizzeria Paradiso **
Washington, ¢

The pizza bakers who stand before the blazing logs of Pizzeria Paradiso's oven seem to change with the seasons, but there has yet to be one of them who reached in with the long-handled wooden paddle and pulled out anything less than a great pie. Here is the archetypal pizza, rarely tasted outside Naples. Its rolled edge dappled brown by the flames, it has the taste of honest rustic bread, and though very thin, somehow has the strength not to buckle under the weight of its toppings.

Save your lust for a pie with "the works" for your neighborhood Italian-American pizza parlor. At Paradiso, you want to enjoy the crust, so it's better to choose just one or two toppings or to order one of the menu's combinations: the classic tomato-cheese-basil Margherita, the spicy Atomica, or the four-cheese combination.

Whatever the season, the bottle offered as the house wine is reliably good. Currently, it's a round, freshly fruity mouthful called Fossi Rosso.

Pizzeria Paradiso , 2029 P St. NW, Washington; 202-223-1245. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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