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Very Best Restaurants: Oodles Noodles

Very Best Listing | Very Best by Cuisine | Very Best by Location

Oodles Noodles **
Washington, Bethesda , ¢

After the 20th Street original in downtown DC established itself as the area's best pan-Asian noodle house, why would its new branch decide that success depends on toning down dishes to an imagined perception of suburban tastes? After all, the vibrant Bethesda restaurant neighborhood has its share of Thai and southwestern Chinese restaurants that can set your face on fire, and the new Austin Grill branch is packing them in with blowtorch-hot Texas chili, Spicy Grilled Texas Wings, and Weed-Killer Sauce.

These tame Bethesda noodles are good enough to earn one star when you consider that the fried appetizers served at this branchparticularly the Japanese dumplingsare virtually greaseless, something that cannot be said for those at the downtown branch.

The original Oodles Noodles earns its two stars thanks to a kitchen that succeeds in capturing the authentic flavors of its various dishes as well as do some of the best Asian restaurants.

At either restaurant, dependable introductions to Oodles Noodles pan-Asian virtuosity are the brothy, comforting Clay Pot Noodles, Malaysian fish-noodle soup, pleasantly resilient Japanese udon noodles with fish cake, and Vietnamese vermicelli served with grilled pork. Even in their toned-down versions, they seem to taste all the better for being presented in serving vessels native to their country of origin.

Oodles Noodles , 1010 20th St. NW, Washington; 202-293-3138. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, Monday through Saturday for dinner. MapIt!

Oodles Noodles , 4907 Cordell Ave., Bethesda ; 301-986-8833. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch, daily for dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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