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Very Best Restaurants: Morton's Of Chicago

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Morton's Of Chicago ***
Washington, Vienna, $$$

This national-class steakhouse is so identified with its porterhouse steak that even a fine lobster is not likely to tempt its fans away from the meat. But if steaks are its reason for being, Morton's does offer more. One lobbyist who has done enough business across his Morton's-Georgetown table to have grown jaded by the prospect of yet another porterhouse suggests that the kitchen's lightly breaded Sicilian veal chop is better than anything of its kind he has tasted in local Italian restaurants.

Though both are similarly clubby in their generous use of dark wood paneling, the Georgetown branch is more brightly lit, probably to show off its impressive collection of serigraphs and paintings by LeRoy Nieman. A third Morton's, due to open early in 1997 in Duke Zeibert's old space at Connecticut and L downtown, promises a different decor. Whatever the look, you can bet that it, too, will be serving the best top-prime, dry-aged beef available.

Morton's Of Chicago , 3251 Prospect St. NW, Washington; 202-342-6258. Open daily for dinner only. MapIt!

Morton's Of Chicago , Fairfax Square, 8075 Leesburg Pike, Vienna; 703-883-0800. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, daily for dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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