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Very Best Restaurants: Le Gaulois

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Le Gaulois ***
Alexandria , $

Consistency is the hallmark of a good restaurant, and it's the reason loyal fans have followed Le Gaulois from its earlier location in DC to its present one in Old Town. This is a restaurant that knows its business, a place where the welcome and service will be professionalnot overly friendly, not rude, but confident in the quality of its productand the dependably excellent food will offer good value.

The cooking at Le Gaulois seems to come into its own in the winter with classics such as pot-au-feu, the French family dinner of boiled beef and vegetables served in their broth; bouillabaisse, a generous assortment of fish and shellfish; and cassoulet de Castelnaudary, beans with duck, lamb, pork sausages, and beans. A very generous portion of confit of duck, with crisp skin and moist, spiced flesh, is served on a king-sized bed of lentilsor, for lesser appetites, shredded on a salad. Venison is served with a hearty grand veneur sauce and accompanied by pureed chestnuts. The wine list shows an effort to search out lesser French wines of good quality and offers them at reasonable prices.

Le Gaulois , 1106 King St., Alexandria ; 703-739-9494. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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