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Very Best Restaurants: Krupin's

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Krupin's **
Washington, ¢

At one of those rare times when Mel Krupin was away from the store, younger brother Morty got a chance to speak without interruption: "We got a real compliment the other day. This guy down from New York told me that our food was almost as good as what you get in New York."

Never mind that Mel Krupin gets his splendid smoked fish from his "fish guy" in Brooklyn, that his smoked whitefish salad is better than the average served in the Lower East Side, or that he overstuffs his sandwiches with old-fashioned, slow-cured pastrami and corned beefa Manhattanite's chauvinism is such that he will never admit that a deli outside his island can match even some of the so-so ones back home.

So as you finish the last of your potato pancakes and wait for the beef-in-the-pot or the stuffed cabbage to arrive, wondering if you should get a couple of black-and-white cookies to have as a late-night snack, remember that you're enjoying yourself at the only local deli worthy of the name.

Krupin's , 4620 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington; 202-686-1989. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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