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Very Best Restaurants: Jean-michel

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Jean-michel *
Bethesda , $$

With French restaurants in general decline here, it's nice to see this one blossom. After struggling on K Street with the Jean-Pierre restaurant, Jean-Michel Farret moved to northern Bethesda, took off his tie, and lowered his prices. The result has been a good, popular bistro serving French standbys plus an occasional innovative dish or an Italian adaptation, usually offered as a special.

Recommended appetizers include the mussels mariniere served in a broth with a spray of cream, miniature ravioli stuffed with spinach and cheese and served with a julienne of duck breast, a puff pastry served with crayfish and lobster sauce, and the house pate. For main courses, meat eaters should try the tender New Zealand lamb chops, the sauteed calf's liver, or the osso buco, served with noodles and a light sauce. Fish attractions include grilled Dover sole, rockfish, and pan-fried salmon, all nicely seasoned and cooked.

The wine list is adequate, given the limited availability of wines at Montgomery County's wholesale outlet. Cakes, mousses, fruit tarts, creme caramel, and souffles provide a fine ending.

Jean-michel , 10223 Old Georgetown Rd. (Wildwood Shopping Center), Bethesda ; 301-564-4910. Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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