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Very Best Restaurants: Jaleo

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Jaleo **
Washington, $

In Spain, tapas are enjoyed as an early-evening snack, to accompany after-work drinks and to tide one over until a late-night dinner. At Jaleo, a selection from the long list of these little dishes provides a full meal of varied tastes. If the diner chooses one of the larger offeringsa crisp-skinned leg of duck, fish with parsley-garlic sauce, or a rib-chop of lambas a "main course," the meal is also a thoroughly satisfying one.

Pay particular attention to the server's recitation of the tapas of the day. Such seasonal specials as grilled whole shrimp or tiny scallops broiled on their half-shells often outshine the other introductory courses offered on the set menu. Jaleo periodically refreshes its menu, but its highlights have remained constant: a combination plate of unusually good Spanish-style cured meats, poached octopus reddened with paprika, fried squid, and tiny grilled sausages with mashed potatoes.

Jaleo , 480 Seventh St. NW, Washington; 202-628-7949. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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