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Very Best Restaurants: Il Radicchio

Very Best Listing | Very Best by Cuisine | Very Best by Location

Il Radicchio *
Washington, Washington, Arlington , $

The latest branch of Roberto Donna's venture into casual Italian dining is a tiny box of a restaurant, spruced up with murals of barnyard life. A wood-fired pizza oven, a wood-fired rotisserie, a stove, refrigeration units, an automatic pasta cooker, and a dishwasher are shoehorned into a small, open kitchen.

Set daily specialssuch as Wednesday's roast suckling pig or Thursday's roast baby lamb, both accompanied by a handful of baby salad greens and deliciously crusty potatoesare substantial enough to make a satisfying, one-plate meal. Even some of the seasonal appetizers, such as a thick slice of eggplant topped with prosciutto, bread crumbs, and mozzarella and served over a briefly cooked tomato sauce, could serve as a light meal if combined with an a la carte salad.

The pasta format is simple: For $6.50 you get all the spaghetti you care to eat; you then pay a small additional charge for each of the more than 20 sauce choices listed on the menu. Possibilities range from the familiar shrimp marinara to a rich combination of cream, leeks, and crumbled sausage.

Il Radicchio , 1509 17th St. NW, Washington; 202-986-2627. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner. MapIt!

Il Radicchio , 1211 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington; 202-337-2627. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

Il Radicchio , 1801 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington ; 703-276-2627. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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