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Very Best Restaurants: Hunan Palace

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Hunan Palace *
Gaithersburg , ¢

Don't be fooled by the name (which translates as "lucky all life") into thinking that the specialty here is Hunan cuisineor by the bland menu of Chinese-American cliches that non-Chinese diners are handed. Ask instead for the bilingual Chinese menu to share in this restaurant's subtle renditions of the cooking of Shanghai and Taiwan.

From the Chinese menu, order Three Cup Chicken (chunks of chicken with ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil), pork chops with pepper, shredded pork with chili pepper, stir-fried shrimp with shredded leeks, steamed scallops with black-bean sauce, or sliced lamb with soy sauce. Whole fish, including the tilapia with soy sauce and spring onion, are also excellent, as are vegetable dishes, such as bamboo shoots with Chinese mushrooms or fresh mushrooms with sugar snap peas.

On weekends join the throng of Taiwanese for the Northern Chinese dim sum.

Hunan Palace , 9011 Gaither Rd. (Shady Grove Shopping Center), Gaithersburg ; 301-977-8600. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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