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Very Best Restaurants: Haandi

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Haandi *
Falls Church , Bethesda , ¢

Haandi's attractions are subtle. This pleasant Indian restaurant has a way with tandoori dishes, which always emerge from the smoldering clay tandoor moist and succulent. Half a spring chicken marinated in yogurt and spices is the star, with murg tikkaboneless breast kebabssalmon, and lamb chops close runners-up.

The tandoor also gives Indian flatbreadsnan, whole-wheat roti, and onion kulchaan earthy smokiness, although the ones at Haandi occasionally emerge undercooked. Anything deep-friedsamosas, pakoras, and the likeis also iffy. Better to stick to stews and casseroles like rogan joshchunks of lamb with velvety yogurt-curry sauceor two rarely seen karahi-style dishes, kebabs of lamb or chicken that are begun on the grill and finished in a wok with herbs and spices.

More typical offerings such as palak paneer, pureed fresh spinach with cubes of house-made cheese, are also well done. And the mango chutney with thick slices of fruit is so good you'll want to attack it with a spoon.

Haandi , 1222 W. Broad St., Falls Church ; 703-533-3501. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

Haandi , 4904 Fairmont Ave., Bethesda ; 301-718-0121. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and daily for dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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