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Very Best Restaurants: Grill From Ipanema

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Grill From Ipanema *
Washington, $

The ideal preface to a meal at this friendly Brazilian cafe is one or another of the bar's excellent cocktails. Choose a caipirinhaeach one made to order from whole limes mulled with sugar and supercharged with Brazilian rumand your taste for saloon daiquiris may be forever spoiled. For something even smoother, try a batida, a creamy, frothy drink offered in a variety of flavors. Be forewarned that these are drinks meant to be sipped at leisure: Hidden beneath their smoothness is an insidious delayed-reaction punch.

The two house specialties are moqueca and feijoada. The latter, served at dinner on Wednesday and Saturday and throughout the day on Sunday, is Brazil's most famous dish, a cassoulet-like feast of black beans, sausage, assorted cuts of pork, and salted beef. The moqueca is a brothy stew, copiously garnished with the diner's choice of various seafoods. Although it appears as generous in portion as the feijoada, it is deceptively light. Either is reason enough to make an initial visit to this hospitable neighborhood cafe.

Grill From Ipanema , 1858 Columbia Rd. NW, Washington; 202-986-0757. Open Monday through Friday for dinner, Saturday and Sunday for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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