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Very Best Restaurants: Galileo

Very Best Listing | Very Best by Cuisine | Very Best by Location

Galileo ****
Washington, $$$

Todd Gray is the latest in a line of talented chefs who have maintained Galileo's reputation as one of the top Italian restaurants in the country. That his predecessorsFabrizio Aielli of Goldoni and Carmine Marzano of Luiginohave gone on to create successes of their own proves owner Roberto Donna's knack for picking chefs who can execute his demanding menu.

Galileo offers a number of contemporary dishessuch as duck breast with quince and a strikingly attractive plate of rockfish presented on a background of yellow-bell-pepper coulis dappled with drops of tomato-infused oilbut such is the richness of the traditional Italian repertory that Donna could constantly surprise his clientele without resorting to invention.

Fond memories of regional specialties from Galileo's ever-changing menu include house-made rigatoni with beans, garlic, and fresh tomato; translucent envelopes of pasta stuffed with minced portobello mushrooms; truffled loin of rabbit; and from its long list of daily fish, grilled John Dory with a copious garnish of sauteed artichokes.

Galileo , 1110 21st St. NW, Washington; 202-293-7191. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, daily for dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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