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Very Best Restaurants: Fortune

Very Best Listing | Very Best by Cuisine | Very Best by Location

Fortune **
Baileys Crossroads , Reston , ¢

Fortune's dim sum "brunches" on weekends are boisterous, satisfying affairs that nearly always involve a wait. But later in the day, the restaurant's other life as a seafood house emerges, and the setting grows more serene. Some dishes are hokey, like scallop fried rice in fresh pineapple, but others, such as salt-baked shrimp, are excellent. The big menu includes Chinese classics as well as delicacies like sea cucumber, abalone, fish maw, conch, and duck's feet. In season, Dungeness crab is a mustsauteed with ginger and scallions or in one of the three other preparations. Steamed watercress with bean-curd sauce is a marvelous companion to the crab or the sweet heat and crunch of pork chops king-do.

As for those dim sum brunches, they're as varied and exotic as you'll find in any Chinatown, and the number of carts is dizzying. Don't miss the shredded chicken with jellyfish, steamed barbecued pork buns, and clams with black-bean sauce. Dim sum, after all, is a way to feed one's sense of adventureand less risky than spelunking.

Fortune , 5900 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads ; 703-998-8888. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

Fortune , 1428 North Point Village Center, Reston ; 703-318-8898. Open daily for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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