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Very Best Restaurants: Bistrot Lepic

Very Best Listing | Very Best by Cuisine | Very Best by Location

Bistrot Lepic **
Washington, $

When a neighborhood makes a restaurant an instant hit, as Georgetown did with Bistrot Lepic, it is best to leave the original formula alone. But chef-owner Bruno Fortin decided not to rest on his success, even though his 40-seat bistro was being overwhelmed with Georgetowners. Yes, the kitchen has improved on its original potato-crusted salmon and Basque chicken stew, but it has also elevated its cooking to the level of some of the best bistros in the area.

Some of the good things herefrom both the seasonal menu and the recited list of daily specialsare a braise of artichokes with duck-breast "ham," braised cheeks of veal, calf's liver sauteed with sherry vinegar, potato-crusted salmon, a seared lamb steak, and a very good cassoulet.

Lepic's wine list includes many more expensive vintages, but the house wine, Le Pic Saint Loup, is fruity, complements both meat and seafood, and costs less than $20.

Bistrot Lepic , 1736 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington; 202-333-0111. Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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