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Very Best Restaurants: Benjarong

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Benjarong *
, ¢

The setting is the first of the pleasant surprises at this Thai restaurant. Glass cases enclose exquisite Thai pottery and other objets, and works of fine art decorate the walls. Fresh orchids imported from Thailand grace each table. Happily, the prices do not reflect luxuryaside from seafood, no dish costs more than $8.95.

Whole red snapper and flounder come in a variety of guisesdeep-fried and crisp with a choice of three sauces, broiled with a hot sauce, or steamed with scallions and mushrooms. Other winners include mussels served with sliced onions on a sizzling platter, and shrimp or scallops with black-bean sauce.

For nonseafood main courses, try the red curry of sliced duck with slivers of bamboo, duck with black-bean sauce and fresh peppers, chicken sauteed with ginger or chili and basil, or pork sauteed with garlic and pepper.

Start with one of the healthful and tart salads, such as shrimp cooked with lemongrass, hot pepper, and lime juice; or beef with lemongrass, lime juice, and chili. Pork satay and deep-fried chicken wings stuffed with ground chicken and pork are also good bets.

Benjarong , , ; 301-424-5533. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner only.

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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