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Best Bargain Restaurants: Würzburg-haus

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Würzburg-haus
Rockville

While winter may be the best time to enjoy the robust food of Germany, diners who want hearty cooking should not overlook this restaurant at any time of the year. For the more calorie conscious, there are chicken offerings and an occasional fish selection. Whatever the food, Würzburg-Haus offers additional fun on weekends, when an accordionist squeezes out lively tunes.

Try to limit your intake of the excellent, dense German bread on the table, at least until you start your soups and appetizers. Good choices for starters are the herring salad with beets, the goulash soup, and potato pancakes.

Satisfying main courses include smoked loin of pork, baked breaded chicken, rib-eye steak served with smothered onions, and goulash, which occasionally comes in a veal version. The German sausage selection is a bargain. Several good veal dishes exceed our Cheap Eats guidelines. Tempting side dishes are spaetzle, bread dumplings, and chopped red cabbage. The large selection of excellent German beers outdoes the limited wine list. The dessert of choice is the mountainous strudel.

Würzburg-haus , 7236 Muncaster Mill Road (Red Mill Shopping Center), Rockville; 301/330-0402. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 9 pm, Friday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Saturday noon to 10 pm. AE, D, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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