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Best Bargain Restaurants: Sunny Garden

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Sunny Garden
Rockville

Once the sole u.s. outpost of a pair of restaurants in Taipei, Sunny Garden has been sold. The new management insists that the kitchen staff has not changed, and recent visits seem to bear that out. It remains a very good Taiwanese restaurant.

The restaurant has changed in one respect. Waiters now routinely present westerners with a watered-down menu that omits some of the more enterprising specialties. Ask for the Chinese menu, which is bilingual.

From the Chinese menu, order one of the steamed whole fish; one unusual version employs codfish coated with a crusty soybean paste. Shredded pork with preserved cabbage, chicken with shredded yellow leeks, fresh oysters with black-bean sauce, three-cup chicken, baby clams with miso, and watercress sautéed with garlic are other good choices. The Chef's Chicken, recommended by a server, was ordinary.

On weekends, there is an ambitious all-you-can-eat luncheon buffet for $6.95, which includes several types of dumplings and many other dishes.

Sunny Garden , 1302 East Gude Drive, Rockville; 301/762-7477. Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 10:30 pm. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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