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Best Bargain Restaurants: Seven Seas Restaurant

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Seven Seas Restaurant
Rockville

One of the fine taiwanese restaurants that thrive in Rockville and Gaithersburg, this place excels at seafood but does well with other dishes, too. The bubbling fish tanks at the entrance filled with Dungeness crabs, clams, scallops, and lobsters provide assurance of the freshness of the fare. The number of Chinese diners provides assurance of its authenticity. To enjoy the best of the restaurant, ask for the bilingual Chinese menu.

Diners cannot go wrong choosing from the live seafood and picking a suitable sauce. Try ginger and scallions with the lobsters and Dungeness crabs, black-bean sauce with the smaller shellfish. Braised rockfish in a rich brown sauce; simmered black cod; steamed whole fish; and roasted salted fresh squid (actually deep-fried) are other pleasures.

Good non-seafood listings are the shredded beef with ginger; stewed chicken with ginger and whole garlic cloves in a hot pot; and sautéed spinach or watercress with garlic. Seven Seas also offers a separate menu of low-fat and low-cholesterol dishes, several Japanese dishes, and, on weekends, the northern-Chinese version of dim sum.

Seven Seas Restaurant , 1776 East Jefferson Street, Rockville; 301/770-5020. Open daily 11:30 am to 1 am. AE, CB, D, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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