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Best Bargain Restaurants: Sabang

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Sabang
Wheaton

Considering that indonesia has more people than France, Italy, and Germany combined, it is surprising that its food is not better known. The varied cuisine should appeal to those who appreciate Chinese, Vietnamese, or Thai cooking. Its complexity is illustrated by its use of more than one cooking method when preparing a dish; chicken, for example, may be baked, then deep-fried.

Sabang is an attractive place to try Indonesian food. Although all of the restaurant's multi-course rijsttaffels are out of the Bargain Restaurant price range, there is a wide choice of very good dishes. Start with the deep-fried squid with a tomato-and-peanut sauce or the Indonesian version of egg rolls. Good main courses are the sautéed shrimp with cauliflower; shrimp in chili sauce; and rendang, beef slowly cooked in a coconut-milk sauce until the sauce reduces to a glaze. The moderately spicy kalio sauce is an unusual sauce made from more than a dozen ingredients; it goes well with whole fish or chicken.

Sabang , 2504 Ennalls Avenue, Wheaton; 301/942-7859 or 942-7874. Open Sunday through Thursday 11 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 11 pm. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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