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Best Bargain Restaurants: Rio Grande Cafe

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Rio Grande Cafe
Bethesda , Ballston , Reston

The first rio grande opened nearly ten years ago in Bethesda to standing-room-only crowds. First-rate Tex-Mex cooking combined with a warehouse look--exposed ductwork, rough floors, stacks of beer cases--proved irresistible. Today, even with three restaurants in the Washington area, it is hard to find a seat at these offspring of Uncle Julio's in Dallas. Instead of reservations, Rio Grande offers diners waiting for tables first-rate tortilla chips and salsa to go with very good margaritas.

The nachos, tacos, enchiladas, tamales, and chiles rellenos are as good as can be found in the area. But there is much more. The more exotic delights include grilled quail, shrimp, and ribs, and plump frogs' legs, all available in a variety of combinations.

Although a stretch for the bargain budget, consider going to the restaurant on a Thursday evening, when there is wonderful young goat. The cabrito consists of a two-pound haunch that is smoked, then barbecued. Splitting the goat and a Tex-Mex platter with a companion offers a memorable evening of eating.

Rio Grande Cafe , 4919 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda; 301/656-2981. Open Monday through Thursday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 11:30 pm, Sunday 11:30 am to 10:30 pm. AE, CB, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

Rio Grande Cafe , 4301 N. Fairfax Drive, Ballston; 703/528-3131. Open Monday through Thursday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 11:30 pm, Sunday 11 am to 10:30 pm. AE, CB, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

Rio Grande Cafe , 1827 Library Street,Reston Town Center, Reston; 703/904-0703. Open Monday through Thursday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 11:30 pm, Sunday 11 am to 10:30 pm. AE, CB, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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