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Best Bargain Restaurants: Pizzeria Paradiso

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Pizzeria Paradiso
Washington

Save "the works" for a pizza you order by phone. If you take the time to wait for one of the 30-some chairs at Pizzeria Paradiso, you should have the wisdom to top this great pizza sparely enough so you can enjoy the flavor of its superb crust. To see just how good it can be, order the small size topped with nothing other than minced garlic, a sprinkling of oregano, a pinch of hot-pepper flakes, and a drizzle of olive oil. Or choose one of the menu's set toppings--the best are the Five Cheese and the fiery Atomica, with its paper-thin slices of premium-quality salami. Whatever your choice of toppings, trust the carefully selected bottle of red house wine--a recently featured Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was a delightful bargain for $10--to provide a suitable complement.

Alternatives to the pizza are sandwiches of various combinations of meats, cheeses, and vegetables, stuffed between two halves of a house-made focaccia roll. In a place that served a pizza less good than Pizzeria Paradiso, they would be the costars on the menu.

Pizzeria Paradiso , 2029 P Street NW, Washington; 202/223-1245. Open Monday through Thursday 11 am to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to midnight, Sunday noon to 10 pm. DC, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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