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Best Bargain Restaurants: P.j. Skidoos


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P.j. Skidoos
Fairfax

There are times when nothing but a steak will do. But while the palate may clamor, the wallet may not be up to it. P.J. Skidoos buys good meat in quantity and passes the savings along. A 12-ounce New York strip is priced at $9.95; prime rib is $8.95 for a 10-ounce portion and $9.95 for 12 ounces.

With its two bars and warren of dining rooms done up with vintage posters, sheet music, and campaign memorabilia ("rockefeller can win in '68"), P.J. Skidoos is something of a local hangout, and the crowds don't seem to mind the wait. Prime rib is thick, the steaks crusty on the outside, juicy within. A nicely charred whiskey-peppercorn sirloin is studded with black pepper and cooked perfectly (get the sauce on the side). And if Cajun prime rib is a special, go for it. Diners who avoid red meat can order grilled chicken or, on Wednesdays, what's known in Maine as a chicken lobster--a one-pounder with side dishes--for $10.95.


P.j. Skidoos , 9908 Lee Highway, Fairfax; 703/591-4515. Open Monday 4 pm to 2 am, Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 am to 2 am, Sunday 10 am to 9 pm. AE, MC, V.   MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive


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