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Best Bargain Restaurants: Nam's

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Nam's
Bethesda , Wheaton

Once the best vietnamese restaurant in Wheaton, Nam's is now the best Vietnamese restaurant in both Bethesda and Wheaton. The newer Bethesda location is more attractive, but the cooking is equally good at both.

Begin with the grilled beef wrapped in grape leaves; the shrimp paste on sugar cane; or the deep-fried spring rolls. Good alternative starters are soups, including a small size of pho, the Vietnamese national soup, and salads, including the special salad of shrimp, chicken, and vegetable enhanced by lime juice, chili peppers, and cilantro.

Main-course recommendations include the whole steamed fish in a brown ginger sauce; baby squid with mixed vegetables; charcoal-grilled scallops and shrimp; shrimp Hue style, made with pork slices in a brown sauce; caramel chicken, morsels of chicken sautéed with enough sugar to turn the sauce an enticing brown without making it too sweet; and Nam's fried pancake, a large, thin crepe filled with bean sprouts, chicken, and shrimp (served only at the Bethesda location).

Nam's , 4928 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda; 301/652-2635. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 10 pm, Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 11 pm, Saturday 5 to 11 pm, Sunday 5 to 10 pm. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

Nam's , 11220 Georgia Avenue, Wheaton; 301/933-2525. Open Tuesday through Thursday 11 am to 3 pm and 5 to 9:30 pm, Friday 11 am to 3 pm and 5 to 10:30 pm, Saturday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Sunday 11 am to 9 pm. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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