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Strangely enough, on a night like this, the roar of the crowd makes the Roadhouse's good old southern food taste even better. You won't mistake the fare here for the corporate cooking served at Po' Folks and the Black-Eyed Pea: The Brunswick stew--like smoked chicken chowder, the long-cooked greens, the gravy on the mashed potatoes, and the platters piled to teetering with fried chicken and pit-cooked ribs all suggest the cooks know how to put their hearts into soul food.
The menu formula is simple: For $10.95, $12.95, or $13.95, depending on the number of courses, a person gets enough food to satisfy at least three people. Even if you finish only half the portion set before you, chances are you'll be too sated to join the revelers at the downstairs bars.
If you suffer guilt from engaging in gluttony, you might feel less troubled coming here for the Gospel Brunch on Sundays, when Brother Luke Sanders and the Sensational Stars make a joyful noise unto the Lord.
Music City Roadhouse , 1050 30th Street NW, Washington; 202/337-4444. Open Tuesday through Thursday 4:30 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 4:30 to 11 pm, Sunday 11 am to 2 pm (brunch) and 5 to 9 pm. AE, DC, MC, V.
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QUALITY:
****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good |