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Best Bargain Restaurants: Louisiana Express Company

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Louisiana Express Company
Bethesda

This small restaurant provides a wide choice of good Louisiana cooking at reasonable prices. Diners can drop in for a New Orleans--style sandwich or relax over one of the elaborate stews that are the hallmark of Louisiana cooking. Most main courses come in small and large sizes.

Start with fried appetizers like the crab balls, catfish beignets, which are deep-fried pieces of fish in a heavily seasoned batter, or one of the gumbos or seafood soups, such as crawfish bisque.

The soul of the menu are three Louisiana staples--creoles, étouffées, and jambalayas--and stir-fries. Most diners order one of the permutations of these--a choice of chicken, andouille sausage, shrimp, or all three. The simple rice jambalaya and the intense brown sauce of the étouffée are especially good. Worth a try, too, is the rotisserie chicken, especially the spicy Cajun version. The house-made pecan bread pudding with whiskey sauce is a good way to end.

Louisiana Express Company , 4921 Bethesda Avenue, Bethesda; 301/652-6945. Open Monday through Thursday 7:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 7:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday 9 am to 9 pm. MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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