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Best Bargain Restaurants: Li Ho Food

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Li Ho Food
Washington

If you want to taste the best version of Singapore-style rice noodles in the metropolitan area, be prepared to do so in the plainest of settings: At Li Ho, the walls are as bare as the tables, the napkins are always paper, and the open kitchen takes up as much space in the storefront dining room as do its 20-odd chairs. What makes these thread-thin, curry-tinted noodles special is the inclusion of a fine dice of fresh green chilies--instead of the usual slices of green bell pepper--which creates pops of spiciness with every bite. Beyond the Singapore-style rice noodles, newcomers to Li Ho need only look at the glass showcase of Cantonese roasted meats to know that a combination platter of duck, chicken, and pork is another must-order dish here. A meal whose overall high quality belies the modesty of Li Ho's setting can be ordered, time and again, by choosing at random from its impressively long menu: chicken-stuffed rolls of edible rice paper; shredded duck with bamboo shoots; Hong Kong Shrimp, with scallions and snow peas, all napped in a light sauce with an almost subliminal hint of garlic; and sizzling chicken served in a Chinese casserole.

Li Ho Food , 501 H Street NW, Washington; 202/289-2059. Open Monday through Thursday 10:30 am to 10:30 pm, Friday through Sunday 10:30 am to 11 pm. MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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