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Best Bargain Restaurants: Krupin's

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Krupin's
Washington

As much of an asset as krupin's is to tenleytown, the neighborhood regulars deserve credit for giving the place the true feel of a deli. As anyone who has spent time in Manhattan or Brooklyn knows, a real New York deli is not just a place you go for takeout sandwiches or to sit at a bare-topped table, taking solitary comfort in a cup of coffee and a kasha knish. Great chicken soup, sandwiches overstuffed with premium cold cuts, and platters of smoked fish draw the neighborhood to a deli, and it is that relaxed neighborhood feeling that makes a true deli so attractive to outsiders.

You start with Mel Krupin's world-class matzah-ball soup or his famous whitefish salad, then you order a corned beef or a pastrami sandwich that a New Yorker praises by saying it is almost--but not quite--as good as he can find in the Big Apple.

Quibble about the quality of the smoked fish platters at your own risk: The salmon, sable, whitefish, and sturgeon are shipped down by Mel's fish guy in Brooklyn.

If you want a big meal, order the beef-in-the-pot, a casserole that yields two bowls of chicken broth, two matzah balls, and a portion of tender, perfectly moist boiled beef. It's more than enough for two, and still a bargain after you add the $1.50 charge for sharing.

Krupin's , 4620 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Washington; 202/686-1989. Open daily 8 am to 10 pm. AE, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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