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Best Bargain Restaurants: Il Pizzico

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Il Pizzico
Rockville

The setting is comfortable; the food is excellent. While prices have crept up a bit, it is hard to fault a menu with first-rate, creative pasta courses, none priced above $8.95, and main courses that include seafood and veal for $11.95.

Start with a fine antipasto or a half-order of pasta--or both. The marinated eggplant and sweet peppers and the chicken breast stuffed with vegetables and served with a balsamic vinegar sauce are good choices. It's hard to go wrong with any of the pastas--thin or thick, stuffed or unstuffed, cloaked with tomato sauce or cream sauce.

Main-course successes include veal scaloppine with artichokes, olives, and capers in a lemon sauce; shrimp with garlic and a white-wine sauce; and filet of sole with rosemary and a lemon-butter sauce.

Also noteworthy are the excellent breads, creative house-made desserts (such as walnut caramel cake with ribbons of chocolate sauce, crème anglaise, and dollops of raspberry purée), coffee, and the wine list, with good selections between $14 and $16.

Il Pizzico , 15209 Frederick Road, Rockville; 301/309-0610. Open Monday through Thursday 11 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 9:30 pm, Friday 11 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10 pm, Saturday 5 to 10 pm. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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