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Best Bargain Restaurants: Hunan Palace

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Hunan Palace
Gaithersburg

The first thing to remember at hunan Palace is that the cooking is not Hunan-style. As with many Chinese restaurants, Hunan Palace's name in English bears little resemblance to its name in Chinese. At this restaurant, it also bears little resemblance to the cooking. The focus at Hunan Palace is primarily the cooking of Taiwan and Shanghai, and its quality is evidenced by the number of Taiwanese diners.

Ask for the bilingual "Chinese" menu, which lists what most of the knowledgeable Chinese are eating. Then, order the likes of stir-fried shrimp with shredded leeks; three-cup chicken; chicken with red-wine sauce in a casserole; tenderloin of beef with scallions and black pepper; Chinese perch with soy sauce and scallions; wu-shi spareribs, meaty ribs coated with a rich brown sauce; steamed scallops with black-bean sauce; and sliced lamb with soy sauce.

Weekends are crowded with Chinese enjoying the northern-Chinese and Taiwanese dim sum, which has more soups, more specialty dishes, fewer dumplings, and no carts.

Hunan Palace , 9011 Gaither Road (Shady Grove Center), Gaithersburg; 301/977-8600. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Sunday 11:30 am to 9:30 pm. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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