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Best Bargain Restaurants: Hunan Number One

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Hunan Number One
Arlington

If you go to this busy restaurant expecting the hot and spicy cooking of Hunan province, you're in for a disappointment. Hunan Number One specializes in Hong Kong--style Cantonese cooking and does it very well. Dishes sampled on recent visits include superb fresh clams in their shells served with a black-bean sauce tangy with garlic and ginger; sizzling black-pepper steak, marinated beef steak with a thick, hot, black-pepper sauce, showily turned out onto a hot platter; and a house specialty, Singapore-style curried rice noodles with shrimp, roast pork, and vegetables.

The restaurant serves dim sum seven days a week from 11 am to 3 pm, but the popular tea snacks must be ordered from a menu except on weekends. Try the steamed-shrimp-and-shark's-fin dumpling, the spareribs with black-bean sauce, and the "8 Treasure Sweet Rice in Lotus Leaf." On weekends, when the dim sum is served from carts, the selection is slightly larger. Another attraction is that Hunan Number One is open late, until 2 am every day.

Hunan Number One , 3033 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington; 703/528-1177. Open daily 11 am to 2 am. AE, D, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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