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Best Bargain Restaurants: Haandi

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Haandi
Falls Church , Bethesda

The tandoor is king at haandi. to get a taste of what this intensely hot clay oven can do, order the burnished yet juicy half chicken, marinated overnight, or the minced chicken and lamb kebabs molded on skewers. Other possibilities are boneless chicken, murg tikka--not quite as succulent as the half bird--and chunked lamb and chicken kebabs, done on the barbecue grill.

The tandoor also turns out rave-worthy flatbreads. The blistered nan, cooked on the side of the tandoor, is wonderful, as are the puffy puri, whole wheat roti, and onion kulcha, layered with chopped onions.

Deep-frying is not this kitchen's forte, although the samosas, filled with their spicy pea-potato mash, are perfectly edible.

Two good dishes from the northwestern provinces only occasionally seen on local menus are kebabs of lamb or chicken begun on the barbecue grill and finished karahi-style in a wok with vegetables, herbs, and spices. Another dish from the northern Hindu province is rogan josh, memorable not so much for the chunks of lamb as for a velvety yogurt-curry sauce with whole basil leaves that begs to be soaked up with whatever bread is left.

Haandi , 1222 West Broad Street, Falls Church; 703/533-3501. Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10:30 pm. AE, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

Haandi , 4904 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda; 301/718-0121. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10:30 pm, Sunday 5 to 10 pm. AE, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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