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Best Bargain Restaurants: Good Fortune

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Good Fortune
Wheaton

With a sizable cantonese community nearby, the aspiring restaurants of Wheaton and Silver Spring must measure up to high standards. No restaurant in the area executes Hong Kong--style Chinese cuisine better than Good Fortune.

Two of the very good preparations are whole fish and casseroles. Try the whole steamed fish with ginger and scallions or the whole sole cooked two ways--most of the flesh is removed from the bone and gently stir-fried, while the skeleton is deep-fried long enough that all but the backbone is edible. Good casseroles include oysters with ginger and scallions and beef with eggplant.

There are plenty of other good dishes on the 200-item menu. Try scallops with black-pepper sauce; baked salted chicken with a sauce of minced ginger and garlic; shredded pork with mushrooms; and spinach or watercress with garlic.

Excellent Cantonese dim sum is served seven days a week at lunch.

Good Fortune , 2646 University Boulevard West, Wheaton; 301/929-8818. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 1 am, Friday 11:30 am to 2 am, Saturday 11 am to 2 am, Sunday 11 am to 1 am. MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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