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Best Bargain Restaurants: Full Key

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Full Key
Wheaton

Once an identical twin of chinatown's Full Kee, with the same spelling, this Wheaton place has split off and gone its own way. It is still a Hong Kong--style noodle house, specializing in meal-sized soups loaded with dumplings, noodles, and slivers of ginger and shiitake mushrooms.

There are other good things to eat at Full Key. One is an exotic soup called congee, a rice porridge topped by a small amount of scallions, pork, peanuts, minced beef, or other garnish. Another good choice is the selection of barbecued meats. These specialties are on a small menu that stands on the table.

You will also be handed another menu. Skip the first few pages, which list standard Chinese-American items, and order from the last page, which has such delicacies as squid stir-fried with sour cabbage or made into a mild curry; deep-fried scallops and shrimp; and meaty Kingdom pork chops with red-pepper sauce.

Full Key , 2227 University Boulevard West, Wheaton; 301/933-8388. Open daily 11 am to 2 am. AE, MC, V. ð MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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