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Best Bargain Restaurants: Four Rivers


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Four Rivers
Rockville

This chinese restaurant is one of the few in the Maryland suburbs that specializes in the food of the Szechuan Province. While several Montgomery County Chinese restaurants have a special menu for Chinese diners, Four Rivers is the only one at which that menu is not translated into English. This is not an insurmountable problem. The regular menu has many fine dishes, often the same as or similar to the Chinese menu listings. Alternatively, diners can ask the server for suggestions.

The regular menu offers such treats as tiny clams in black-bean sauce; crispy shrimp, served with the head on; watercress with garlic; and the whole deep-fried Szechuan fish, usually either a sea bass or a grouper. If you order Kung Pao chicken, ask for the Chinese menu version; it's better. A good dish recently ordered from the Chinese menu with the help of a waiter was the sliced smoked pork with scallions.

Lunch on weekends consists of very good northern-Chinese dim sum.


Four Rivers , 184 Rollins Avenue, Rockville; 301/230-2900. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday 11:30 am to 10 pm. AE, D, MC, V.   MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive


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