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Best Bargain Restaurants: Fortune

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Fortune
Baileys Crossroads , Reston

If you let your attention wander at these large, noisy dim sum palaces, always jammed on weekends, some delectable offering may whiz past, never to return. Bothrestaurants serve dim sum from carts every day of the week. Offerings are so numerous that you'll probably encounter a different mix every time you go.

Fortune has a way with dumplings. All were good on a recent foray, but the stars were curried pork and a combination of shrimp, chives, and pork. Besides the usual steamed pork buns, Fortune offers a more delicate (and delicious) sesame-studded, triangular version. For the intrepid, there are also such novelties as chicken feet with oyster sauce and shredded chicken with jellyfish.

The carts also bear small portions of main dishes such as roast duck glistening with fat, crunchy Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce, and wide Singapore rice noodles in a savory curry gravy. Other good bets have included black scallops and their roe in ginger-scallion sauce, crab claws filled with shrimp paste, clams with black-bean sauce, and batter-fried oysters.

The regular menu is large and leans heavily toward seafood. Fortune's Seafood Combination piles scallops, shrimp, crab, lobster, and vegetables in a shredded-potato nest. Also good are such classics as salt-baked squid, scallops, or shrimp with chili sauce.

Should the egg-custard tartlet roll by, make sure to grab it, even if you're still contemplating a chicken foot. You may not have another chance.

Fortune , 5900 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads; 703/998-8888. Open Sunday through Thursday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 11 pm. AE, D, MC, V. MapIt!

Fortune , 1428 North Point Village Center, Reston; 703/318-8898. Open Sunday through Thursday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 11:30 pm. AE, D, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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