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Best Bargain Restaurants: Foong Lin

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Foong Lin
Bethesda

Most of the maryland chinese restaurants on this list offer one variety of Chinese regional cooking--usually Taiwanese or Hong Kong--style Cantonese. Not Foong Lin. Its menu is wide-ranging. It is a tablecloth restaurant, and few of its customers are ethnic Chinese, but Foong Lin does not serve ordinary Chinese-American fare.

Among the very good dishes are whole fish, usually rockfish or flounder, both steamed and deep-fried Hunan-style; shrimp with black-bean sauce; crusty, julienne Szechuan crispy beef; several duck dishes, including Peking duck, the equally bronzed and crisp yuling duck, or the softer Buddha duck, which is braised with mixed vegetables; chicken breast stuffed with minced shrimp and then lightly deep- fried; lamb with scallions and ginger; and combination chow foon, broad rice noodles with shrimp, chicken, pork, and vegetables. The only dish that failed on recent visits was the deep-fried squid.

Foong Lin , 7710 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda; 301/656-3427. Open Monday through Thursday 11 am to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 11 pm, Sunday noon to 10 pm. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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