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Best Bargain Restaurants: El Gavilan

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El Gavilan
Silver Spring

Nothing ensures the quality of an ethnic restaurant so much as an active and demanding ethnic community. The concentration of Salvadoran and other Central American émigrés in the area around Piney Branch Road and Flower Avenue provides a good testing ground. El Gavilan performs especially well.

For appetizers, try the charred morsels of pork with yucca; one of several versions of nachos, some quite elaborate; and the guacamole, which is chunky and contains bits of tomato. The ceviche, made from trout with chopped red onions and tomatoes, comes in a big serving and is very good.

Good main courses include the combination platters, such as shrimp brochette with a choice of sizzling chicken or beef fajitas served with sautéed onions and large dollop of guacamole; or a combination of a tender stuffed pepper, a corn tamale, and a large enchilada. Other possibilities are dry-style ribs, Salvadoran steak, shrimp sautéed with tomatoes and onions, and crispy fried fish.

El Gavilan , 8805 Flower Avenue, Silver Spring; 301/587-4197. Open Monday through Thursday 11 am to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 12:30 am, Sunday 11 am to 11:30 pm. MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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