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Best Bargain Restaurants: Dynasty

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Dynasty
Wheaton

Dynasty is one of the few local chinese restaurants not open for lunch. So those who want Dynasty's Hong Kong--style Cantonese cooking will have to visit the restaurant in the evening--or, because it is open late, in the wee hours of the morning.

The restaurant's menu is long and enterprising, announcing the fact that it caters to a large Chinese clientele in addition to non-Asians. Excellent dishes include the deboned duck stuffed with minced shrimp; braised grouper in a casserole with bean curd (one of a number of good casserole dishes); long, narrow razor clams in black-bean sauce; sautéed crystal shrimp with Chinese leeks; a wide selection of steamed shellfish with ginger and scallions; steamed sea bass or grouper with shredded pork and soy sauce; and shredded chicken with hot garlic sauce. There are good vegetable dishes, including the standby of Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce and the less-familiar mixed vegetables lo-han style, a Buddhist preparation with the vegetables cooked well beyond the al dente stage.

Dynasty , 11123 Viers Mill Road, Wheaton; 301/942-3070. Open Sunday through Thursday 4 pm to 1:30 am, Friday and Saturday 4 pm to 2:30 am. AE, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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