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Best Bargain Restaurants: Dusit Thai Cuisine

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Dusit Thai Cuisine
Wheaton

Bent-neon sculptures, pastel-colored wall and booths, and well-spaced tables provide a congenial setting at this appealing Thai restaurant. Add low prices--almost every dish is less than $10, some considerably so--and you have a winner.

Good appetizers include the larb (ground chicken or beef enhanced with lemon, mint, raw onion, and hot peppers); hot bean-thread salad with chicken and shrimp; crispy twice-cooked duck; strips of grilled beef served with lettuce and a chili sauce; and traditional deep-fried spring rolls.

Among the good main courses are a gently seasoned dish that resembles a galantine of ground duck; squid or shrimp served with garlic sauce and white pepper; and whole crispy fish, either spicy with pepper, shrimp, and chili paste, or milder with ginger, pork, mushrooms, and black beans. Part of any meal should be one of Dusit's fine spicy curries--most tempered, in the Thai tradition, with coconut milk.

Dusit Thai Cuisine , 2404 University Boulevard West, Wheaton; 301/949-4140. Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm. AE, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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