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Best Bargain Restaurants: Aroma

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Aroma
Washington

A recent arrival among a number of very good Indian restaurants that have opened in the last few years, Aroma is set to get even better. In December its kitchen was taken over by chef Santokh Singh, who won plaudits for his work at Bombay Dining in Bethesda. As of this writing, Aroma's menu--which closely resembles that of the nearby Bombay Palace--remains unchanged, but chef Sing's touch is evident in the sharpening of flavors of familiar dishes. One hopes he will add a few less-familiar specialties of his own to Aroma's classic repertory.

Not that Aroma's menu merely replicates the local Indian repertory: Some of its unique offerings include sali jardaloo, chicken with a spicy sweet-and-sour sauce; the saffron-sauced chicken moghlai; and crusty chicken kebabs seasoned with mint and coriander. Good choices among the classics include vinegar-accented lamb vindaloo; cubes of homemade cheese stewed in a fresh tomato sauce spiked with slivers of ginger; and the opulent Butter Chicken, first roasted in the tandoor, then simmered briefly in a sauce of butter, cream, and tomatoes.

Aroma , 1919 I Street NW, Washington; 202/833-4700. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 10 pm, Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 10:30 pm, Saturday noon to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 10:30 pm, Sunday noon to 2:30 pm and 5 :30 to l0 pm. AE, D, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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