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Best Bargain Restaurants: Akasaka

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Akasaka
Alexandria

A distinguished addition to the international smorgasbord of restaurants and shops in the Van Dorn Center, this simple and attractive Japanese restaurant has much to recommend it. The quality of the sushi rivals that of many more-expensive establishments simply because the owner goes to the expense of bringing in, whenever possible, fresh fish rather than the frozen that some sushi bars covertly employ. Uni, sea-urchin roe, is a test of a sushi bar. Here it has always been fresh and sweet without a trace of iodine. Cooked dishes are also very good. The tempura is a model--crisp, light, greaseless. Sukiyaki and shabu shabu are both cooked at the table and the various raw ingredients transformed before you into a distinguished whole. Tonkatsu, deep-fried pork cutlet, is crisp and succulent. Chilled buckwheat noodles are beautifully presented on a bamboo mat. Tempura ice cream is the perfect dessert, but even if you choose not to order dessert, you'll be brought a beautifully carved orange half with your bill.

Akasaka , 514-C South Van Dorn Street, Alexandria; 703/751-3133. Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10 pm, Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10:30 pm, Saturday noon to 10:30 pm, Sunday 4 to 9:30 pm. AE, DC, MC, V. MapIt!

QUALITY: ****Excellent; *** Superior; **Very Good; * Good
PRICE RANGE: $$$= Very Expensive; $$ Expensive; $=Moderate; ¢=Inexpensive

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